Santa Cruz surfer speaks on riding potential record 108-foot wave

WOW! That's incredible...I've been to Maverick's, near Half Moon Bay, just below SF...Every winter the waves get huge and its very famous for surfing....also, you can buy big dungeness crabs there to take home and cook.

I have always been fascinated by surfing. There are many great surfing films, beautiful and thrilling.

I think Step Into Liquid is the best.  ( link in next post)...surfing the most extreme and beautiful places around the world. That film is a must watch even if you don't care about surfing.

I have taken surfing lessons back when I lived in CA. I used to go at sunset and watch the surfers off Manhattan Beach. I would watch for hours.

The lessons I took were given by a Hawaiian guy in Leucadia CA ( north of SD) that has big cliffs and lots of seals. You have to lug the long boards down a zig zag path to the sea. One memorable day for me when all was grey and foggy...early morning, maybe 7am. It was so beautiful and memorable being out in the water in all of that grey with the sea moving below me on the board. 

Sadly for me, I have a curvature in my spine near my neck and getting up on a board is hard for me. They have a technique wherein you have to kneel first and not pop up but I did not spend enough time trying...so I watch.

It's not a balance thing, I can get right up and stay up on a paddle board and can windsurf easily ( Kauai!!) but I would need more practice to surf...Time has not run out so I will try again. No real surfing here except during storms. 

My overly careful self holds me back too...All of those years as a lifeguard and the terrible fear they put into you about back injuries....